Valladolid. A small, cultural, and beautiful secret of the Yucatán Peninsula 🤫
Did you ever wonder how Tulum felt before social media influencers turned it into a new celebrity Mecca?
Without going too much into details on what changed and how what concerns us is how one perceives Tulum changed.
It was a place where you truly felt detached from the rest of the world as an immersion into local experiences was at its pick. There were not enough seasonal newcomers and tourists to change the local makeup. Instead of tourism being influential on the makeup of local culture, it is a local culture that was big enough to influence newcomers. Obviously, it all changed when the flow of new people overwhelmed the local culture. You find this trend in every big cosmopolitan city. Locals stop being too open, general warmth fades, and interconnections of culture and travellers happen only at certain "touristic" spots. That's why you always hear that "this and this city is not the same anymore."
In our view, this change is natural and unavoidable. Instead of wishing to turn the time back to see how things were, let us better focus on places that still can offer that deep and local cultural experience not confined to a few in between dedicated touristic attractions.
Enter Valladolid.
An in-land city located one and a half-hour drive away from Tulum. Its makeup is shaped by changing times and cultures within it. The colonial and Christian architecture of Spaniards is contrasted with local Mayan settlements. Their long history of divisions, alliances, wars, and faith are reflected in the city's beautiful architecture, little changed by time.
Culture is not the only thing that shapes this beautiful city: its nature, similar to that found in Tulum, ads an atmosphere of mysticism and magic as sparkling rain of stars, smooth and wooden doors, colourful huge colonial walls, intermingle with Palms rich green, thriving plants and blossoming flowers. The charming and mind-awakening aroma of pure relaxation and dreams that somehow feel real.
Valladolid is also known as a city of thousands of cenotes - underground caves filled with crystal clear water. In this regard, whether you are looking for perfect relaxation or have an adventurer's mind, Valladolid is an ideal spot to be.
Los Frailes.
Around 90% of my time in Valladolid was spent here. My and my girlfriend's favourite area.
Los Frailes is a street that used to be a dividing part between Spaniards and Mayans in the past. Architecture well reflects that. Old colonial buildings with high ceilings and colourful walls all follow pawed wide street with coffee shops, restaurants, and ambient stores selling local artcrafts from the city's center towards one of the main Churches. An entire road is a photographer's paradise and a pleasure to contemplate for aesthetic enjoyment. In my view, this is the best spot to experience Valladolid as your starting point or a home base (see our Airbnb recommendations).
Bars are timing with locals during the night, life-music, friendliness, and laughter can be felt at all times. You can spend an entire day drifting between places in Los Frailes and finish the day with an open-air colourful light show projected on the walls of the Church that culminates the street.
At first, I wanted to make a list of places to visit as recommendations, but then I realized that all spots located in Los Frailes are worth checking out.
Center.
The way most tourists get to Valladolid is via excursion busses that stop only for a few hours in the beautiful center of the city. This is why the center is mostly how people experience the city.
As beautiful as it is during the day it truly awakens after the sunset as locals and travellers all enjoy a flamboyant central park with a lovely view of the Church (functioning), trees, fountain and small merchants selling souvenirs and food.
Parroquia de San Bernardino de Siena.
After 8 pm on Fridays and weekends, Parroquia de San Bernardino de Siena hosts an open-air lights show. This is a must to see in Valladolid! The show tells a story of the city projected via an array of huge projectiles right on the walls of the Church accompanied by music and a narrator.
Other noteworthy areas in the city.
Tip: It is very easy and not expensive to rent a bike, scooter, or a quadricycle in the city.
It is worth taking the time and exploring other areas of the city that can offer a unique and delightful experience. A lot of good restaurants are spread all around and some are remote enough that it is better to take a cab.
A few examples:
Choco-Story Valladolid. A chocolate museum where, most importantly, you can shop for a variety of different chocolates.
Canto Encanto. Stunning coffee shop/brunch place with the best balcony view.
Burrito Amor. A restaurant with a small aircraft store inside.
Many parks and little churches around the city.
Don't be shy about asking locals for the advice! Valladolid is full of friendly people who would gladly tell you their favourite restaurant.
Valladolid cenotes and Ek Balam ruins.
Ek Balam.
Located 25 kilometres (16 mi) north of Valladolid, of all the archeological sites in Yucatan, Ek Balam is by far my favourite one!
It's the only archeological site in the region where you are allowed to climb the Pyramids, which makes it an unforgettable experience.
Aside from the Pyramids that are usually associated with Mayan ruins, the entire site has many other well-preserved structures making this site very fascinating to wonder about.
Directions:
Cenotes.
What are cenotes?
Cenotes are natural underground deep-water wells which are provided by the filtration of rain and by the currents of underground rivers that are born in the heart of the earth. This makes water fresh and extremely unique.
There are four main types of cenotes: 1) cavern cenotes are the youngest - caves that are not exposed to the surface yet; semi-open cenotes - ones with partially collapsed ceilings 3) open cenotes - oldest cenotes with the roof being collapsed due to the passage of times 4) Ancient cenotes that are either dry or looking more like a lagunes.
Cenote X’kekén and Samula.
Two distinct cenotes located about 15 minutes drive from the Valladolid center offer an entire package of half of the day adventures that in another place you will be asked to pay a fortune for. Start by exploring refreshing caves and watters of cenotes and finish up with an expedition to the surrounding jungles on a quadricycle. This will be an unforgettable experience and joy which you will keep in your memories for the rest of your life.
Directions:
Cenote Suytun.
Located slightly outside of Valladolid, this cenote is the most well-known due to its shape and a protruding platform that makes it an Instagrammer's paradise.
Directions:
Cenote Palomitas and Cenote Agua Dulce.
Two hidden gems are located 35 kilometres to the northeast of Valladolid. Beautiful caves decorated with huge hanging stalactites are off the road and hence are less discovered by tourists. They are considered to be one of the most beautiful cenotes in the Yucatan Peninsula.
Directions:
Cenote Zací.
Located a short walking distance from Valladolid Center. This is an ancient cenote as it has a large opening with a very cheap entrance.
Directions: Cenote Zací is just a few blocks off the main square in Valladolid between Calle 37 and Calle 39
In conclusion:
Whether you are looking for adventure, nature, spiritual and physical tranquillity, cultural quest, or amusement Valladolid has it all. A gem with deep historical roots, this city is located in the heart of the Yucatan Peninsula - the most intriguing landscape that hides many wonders of this world like cenotes and ancient archeological sites of Mayan culture.
If you are decided on your trip to Tulum but do not know when to go, where to stay, or what places to visit, consider checking out the following arteries:
Tulum Hotels VS Tulum Airbnb: Which is better?
Where to stay? Zona Hotelera vs Pueblo.
Is it safe to go to Tulum in 2020/2021?
What is the best time of year to go to Tulum Mexico?
The best way to spend one day in Tulum. Perfect Tulum guide.
For any questions related to Tulum, you can contact me using the form below.
Best regards,
Alex, your personal Tulum insider.